Tucked between Malindi and Kilifi on Kenya’s sun-drenched northern coastline, Watamu is the kind of place that makes you want to turn off your phone and live barefoot forever. Just 105 kilometers north of Mombasa—and a short coastal drive from Malindi—this sleepy little town is one of East Africa’s most underrated beach escapes. It’s got everything a tropical daydream needs: sugar-white sand, clear turquoise water, and coral reefs so intricate they look like underwater cathedrals.
At the heart of it all is the Watamu Marine National Park, a protected wonderland teeming with marine life, making it a bucket-list spot for snorkeling, diving, and pretending you’re in a David Attenborough documentary. But Watamu isn’t just a pretty face. It carries the weight of history too—just inland lie the vine-wrapped ruins of Gede, a once-thriving 13th-century Swahili city that whispers tales of ancient trade routes and cultural fusion.
And then there’s the Italian twist. Since the 1960s, a wave of sun-seeking Italians have made Watamu their second home, leaving their mark in the form of pizzerias, pasta, and some very enthusiastic espresso-drinking. It’s not every day you find a beach town where “mambo” and “ciao” coexist so naturally.
Whether you’re here to kite through the waves, wander through history, sip cocktails under the stars, or simply do absolutely nothing (in the most beautiful way possible), Watamu doesn’t just deliver—it enchants.
Table of Contents
Dive into Watamu’s Aquatic Adventures
Snorkeling in Watamu Marine National Park
Established in 1968, Watamu Marine National Park is one of Africa’s oldest marine reserves. Its crystal-clear waters and thriving coral reefs make it a snorkeler’s paradise. Home to over 600 species of fish and 150 species of hard and soft corals, the park offers an underwater spectacle that’s hard to match.
Visitors can expect to encounter a variety of marine life, including angelfish, parrotfish, butterflyfish, and the occasional sea turtle. The park’s shallow lagoons and coral gardens are easily accessible, making it suitable for both beginners and experienced snorkelers. Remember, the best snorkeling experiences often coincide with low tide, so plan accordingly.
Scuba Diving: Exploring the Depths
For those looking to delve deeper, Watamu offers exceptional scuba diving opportunities. Dive sites like “The Canyon,” “Temple,” and “Merry-Go-Round” feature dramatic coral formations, swim-throughs, and a rich diversity of marine species. The Mida Wreck, a sunken boat lying 14 meters deep, has become a haven for marine life and a must-visit for diving enthusiasts.
Dive centers such as Turtle Bay Dive Center and Aqua Ventures provide guided dives and certification courses, ensuring a safe and memorable underwater experience.
Deep Sea Fishing: A Sportfishing Haven
Watamu’s offshore waters are renowned for deep sea fishing, attracting anglers from around the world. The area is one of the few places where you can catch three types of marlin, sailfish, broadbill swordfish, and shortbill spearfish. The fishing season typically runs from July to April, with peak times varying for different species.
Charter services like Hemingways Watamu and Alleycat Fishing offer tailored fishing trips, catering to both novices and seasoned anglers. Whether you’re aiming for a record-breaking catch or simply enjoying the thrill of the chase, Watamu’s deep sea fishing scene won’t disappoint.
Kitesurfing and Windsurfing: Riding the Coastal Winds
Watamu’s consistent trade winds make it a prime location for kitesurfing and windsurfing. The Kaskazi wind blows from December to April, averaging 20-25 knots, providing ideal conditions for these exhilarating sports.
Popular spots like Garoda Beach and Turtle Bay offer flat water lagoons and exposed sandbanks, catering to both beginners and advanced riders. Schools such as Tribe Watersports and JC Kiteschool provide lessons and equipment rentals, ensuring everyone can harness the wind and ride the waves.
Stand-Up Paddleboarding and Kayaking in Mida Creek
For a more tranquil water experience, Mida Creek offers serene environments perfect for stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) and kayaking. This expansive tidal estuary, lined with mangroves, is a haven for birdlife and offers calm waters ideal for leisurely exploration.
Organizations like E-SUP Watamu and Watamu Treehouse organize eco-friendly excursions, allowing visitors to glide through the creek’s channels, observe diverse wildlife, and even enjoy sunset paddles.
Nature, Culture, and Conservation: The Soul of Watamu
While the beaches may steal the spotlight, there’s more to Watamu than just sun, sand, and sea. This coastal gem is also a hub of biodiversity, Swahili culture, and community-driven conservation. Step away from the shoreline, and you’ll find a fascinating blend of nature and heritage waiting to be explored.
Mida Creek: A Mangrove Wonderland
If Watamu Marine Park is the town’s oceanic heart, Mida Creek is its lifeblood. This vast, palm-fringed tidal inlet stretches nearly 32 square kilometers and is one of the most important mangrove ecosystems in East Africa. It’s home to flamingos, kingfishers, fish eagles, and flocks of migratory birds that make seasoned birdwatchers weep with joy.
At low tide, the mudflats attract fiddler crabs and other tiny critters. At high tide, the waters turn mirror-smooth—perfect for kayaking, paddleboarding, or gliding through on a dugout canoe. You can explore it all with guides from the local CRREC (Community Resource and Recreational Environmental Centre), who are not only experts on the creek’s ecology but also involved in its protection.
And yes, there’s a boardwalk—elevated above the mangroves and ending at a watchtower with ridiculous sunset views.
Arabuko Sokoke Forest: Where Elephants Roam (Silently)
Just a short drive inland from Watamu is the Arabuko Sokoke Forest, the largest coastal forest in East Africa. Think of it as the anti-beach: shaded, humid, full of rustling secrets and mysterious calls from the canopy.
This forest isn’t just another green blob on the map. It’s a global biodiversity hotspot. You’ll find rare bird species like the Sokoke Scops Owl and Clarke’s Weaver here, plus elephants, duikers, bush babies, and golden-rumped elephant shrews—perhaps the world’s most confused-looking rodent.
Local guides offer early morning and twilight walks along marked trails. It’s not exactly a Big Five safari, but it’s deeply immersive—and blissfully crowd-free.
Gede Ruins: A Ghost City in the Jungle
Tucked beneath the forest canopy between Watamu and Malindi lies one of Kenya’s most enigmatic archaeological sites: the Gede Ruins.
Once a thriving 13th-century Swahili town with a population of over 2,000 people, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Gede was mysteriously abandoned sometime in the 17th century. Today, its moss-covered walls, stone tombs, and crumbling mosques are quietly reclaimed by fig trees and strangler vines.
Walking through the ruins feels like stumbling onto the set of an Indiana Jones sequel—minus the booby traps, plus a lot more monkeys. Crumbling coral-stone walls emerge from the forest floor, archways swallowed by fig roots, and empty tombs whisper stories long forgotten. Your guide is likely a local historian with a passion for Swahili poetry and a sharp eye for the shy sykes monkeys that dart between the trees, wide-eyed and half-curious.
Gede isn’t alone in its mystery. It’s part of a much broader coastal legacy—one that stretches from Lamu to Kilwa, Mombasa to Zanzibar. Together, these ancient settlements formed a vibrant trade network that connected Africa with Arabia, Persia, and even India. You’ll see the same coral-rag construction, intricately carved doorways, and mosque layouts in places like Mombasa Old Town and Stone Town in Zanzibar—each with its own unique twist, but sharing a common Swahili soul.
As for why Gede was abandoned? Well, that depends on who you ask. Some say the town fell victim to war or famine. Others blame plague or the shifting course of trade routes. And then there are the whispers—of djinns (spirits) who chased the people away, of curses, hauntings, and strange phenomena still felt in the forest at dusk. Whether you lean toward archaeology or the supernatural, Gede makes for an unforgettable half-day trip—especially if you love your history with a touch of the haunted.
Bio-Ken Snake Farm: For the Brave and the Curious
If you’ve ever wanted to see Kenya’s most dangerous snakes from a safe distance (or touch a few harmless ones if you’re feeling brave), Bio-Ken Snake Farm is the place to go. Run by herpetologists and conservationists, it houses over 100 species of snakes, including puff adders, cobras, and the infamous black mamba.
Bio-Ken doesn’t just collect snakes for fun. It plays a critical role in snakebite treatment across East Africa by producing antivenom and conducting snake awareness training for rural communities.
Come for the education, stay for the adrenaline rush of standing within slithering distance of creatures that could literally kill you—but probably won’t.
Watamu Turtle Watch: Marine Conservation in Action
Back to the beach for a moment—Watamu isn’t just about admiring marine life, it’s also about protecting it. Enter Local Ocean Conservation and their Watamu Turtle Watch program.
This grassroots organization has been instrumental in safeguarding nesting turtles along the Watamu coast. They monitor nests, rescue injured turtles, and work with fishermen to release by-catch turtles safely back into the wild. You can even join a nighttime turtle patrol during nesting season (usually between October and March) or visit their rehabilitation center to meet patients getting ready for release.
It’s one of the few places where your holiday selfies can include a turtle… with a clear conscience.
Swahili Flavors and Coastal Vibes: Where to Eat and Play
After all that adventuring—whether underwater, on a kayak, or through centuries-old ruins—you’re going to need to refuel. Fortunately, Watamu’s dining scene punches well above its weight for such a small town. The food here is a delightful mix of Swahili, Italian, and continental influences, reflecting the area’s multicultural roots and laid-back seaside lifestyle.
Beachside Dining with a Swahili Twist
You haven’t really experienced Watamu until you’ve eaten freshly grilled octopus on the beach as dhows sail past on the horizon. Many of the area’s top eateries are right on the sand, offering sunset views and salty breezes alongside your meal.
Papa Remo Beach serves up Italian-Swahili fusion dishes, including coconut lobster pasta and crispy calamari, with your feet literally in the sand.
Amandina Restaurant at Medina Palms combines international flavors with local ingredients and a stunning oceanfront setting, perfect for a romantic dinner or a long, lazy lunch.
Crab Shack Dabaso, run by a community conservation group in Mida Creek, is one of the most authentic seafood joints around. It’s built on stilts in the mangroves, and you’ll feast on crab samosas, grilled prawns, and Swahili curry while birds chirp overhead and monkeys lurk in the shadows.
Street Food and Local Eats
Don’t skip the simpler pleasures: smoky mshkaki (beef skewers), spicy samosas, fried cassava, and sugary mandazi. You’ll find these treats being dished out from roadside grills and beach shacks—best eaten with your hands and a splash of chili sauce.
Watamu has a small but lively local market near the junction, where you can buy mangoes, coconuts, fresh fish, or chat with friendly vendors who’ll probably offer unsolicited recipes and Swahili proverbs.
Cocktails and Coastal Nightlife
Nightlife in Watamu isn’t exactly Ibiza—but that’s part of the charm. Think beach bonfires, mellow reggae beats, and barefoot dance floors rather than thumping nightclubs.
For a livelier evening, head to Come Back Club, a long-standing Watamu institution known for its weekend DJ sets and casual, open-air dance vibes. It’s also the best place to meet a weirdly diverse crowd: Italian expats, local fishermen, and kite-surfing digital nomads all mingling under one roof.
Lichthaus at Temple Point Resort offers a more laid-back alternative—great cocktails, bean bags, and occasional acoustic sessions with the sound of lapping water in the background.
Where to Stay in Watamu: Hotels, Eco-Lodges, and Boutique Gems
Watamu may be a small town, but when it comes to places to stay, it delivers a surprisingly wide range—whether you’re after barefoot luxury, eco-conscious escapes, or affordable beachside comfort. Accommodation here blends into the scenery: think palm-thatched roofs, sea-facing balconies, and interiors that smell faintly of salt and coconut oil.
Luxury Resorts and Boutique Hotels
Medina Palms is often considered the crème de la crème of Watamu hotels. Located on Turtle Bay Beach, this Moroccan-inspired resort is famous for its lavish villas, rooftop terraces, and a pool that seems to stretch into the ocean. It’s perfect for honeymooners, Instagrammers, or anyone who believes that vacation should include a massage and a mocktail with a tiny umbrella.
Hemingways Watamu, part of the iconic Hemingways Collection, is another top-tier choice. A blend of colonial elegance and modern luxury, the resort offers spacious sea-facing rooms, a top-rated spa, and some of the best seafood in town. It’s also a hub for sportfishing and diving, so expect to share your breakfast table with serious anglers and marine biologists.
Kobe Suite Resort and Temple Point Resort offer equally gorgeous settings with a more boutique, bohemian flair—great for couples or small groups seeking privacy and a touch of artsy charm.
Mid-Range Comfort and Family Stays
Turtle Bay Beach Club is a favorite for families and all-inclusive seekers. The vibe is relaxed, kid-friendly, and full of beach activities—from kayaking and beach volleyball to crab races and Swahili cooking classes.
Watamu Villa, Blue Bay Cove, and Pole Pole Watamu (yes, pole pole means “slowly slowly” in Swahili, and it’s very on-brand) are smaller properties with local charm, perfect for those who want comfort without the five-star frills.
Many properties in this bracket offer direct access to the beach, home-style meals, and leafy tropical gardens full of bougainvillea and birdsong.
Budget-Friendly and Backpacker Options
Even on a shoestring, you can wake up to the sound of waves in Watamu. Budget travelers have several charming options that are high on character and low on price.
Marijani Guesthouse, Mida Eco-Camp, and Giriama Backpackers are local favorites. Expect simple rooms, chilled communal spaces, and a friendly atmosphere where you’re more likely to find a cold Tusker beer than a concierge. These spots often attract kitesurfers, digital nomads, and solo travelers seeking community and authenticity.
For the full “I’m living here now” experience, consider booking a self-catering cottage or Airbnb. Many are run by longtime Italian residents (Watamu has a large Italian expat population) and often include bicycles, kitchens, and occasional unsolicited pasta.
Getting There and Getting Around
How to Get to Watamu
Watamu lies about 120 kilometers north of Mombasa and just 20 kilometers south of Malindi. Your journey will depend on where you’re starting, but there are several convenient options.
By Air: The easiest route is to fly into Malindi Airport, which has daily connections from Nairobi via Kenya Airways and Safarilink. From there, it’s a 30-minute drive south to Watamu by taxi or pre-booked transfer.
By Road: If you’re coming from Mombasa, the scenic drive up the B8 highway takes about 2.5 to 3 hours, depending on traffic and photo stops. The road is newly expanded in parts (especially around the Mtwapa–Kilifi stretch), easing one of the coast’s perennial traffic bottlenecks and improving access to Watamu and vice versa.
You can hire a private car, take a matatu (minibus), or book with a shuttle service like Dreamline or Coast Bus for a smoother, air-conditioned ride.
By Rail: While the Mombasa–Nairobi SGR train is not directly connected to Watamu, many travelers opt to take the train to Mombasa, then continue northward by taxi or van.
How to Get Around Watamu
Watamu is small and mostly walkable—especially if your idea of a good day includes wandering barefoot from breakfast to the beach. However, for longer distances or day trips:
- Boda-bodas (motorbike taxis): Cheap, fast, slightly terrifying, but very convenient. Always agree on the fare before hopping on.
- Tuk-tuks: A safer (and breezier) option for short distances, especially if you’re traveling with bags or friends.
- Taxis: Available via your hotel or through local drivers. Prices are negotiable and usually fair.
- Car hire: Possible through hotels or agencies in Malindi if you plan to explore inland or make your own schedule.
Travel Tips for Your Watamu Holiday
Best Time to Visit
Watamu is warm year-round, with average daytime temperatures between 28–32°C (82–90°F). However, for optimal beach and ocean conditions:
- Best weather: January to March (dry, sunny, perfect for snorkeling and diving).
- Best marine life: November to April (turtle nesting, billfish season).
- Avoid: April and May (long rains), though prices drop and the beaches are beautifully quiet.
What to Pack
- Reef-safe sunscreen (protect those corals!)
- Snorkel gear if you have your own
- Light clothing, flip-flops, and a sunhat
- A good camera or waterproof phone case
- Insect repellent for the evenings
- A Swahili phrasebook (or just remember “Jambo,” “Asante,” and “Pole pole”)
Stay Sustainable
Watamu is a fragile ecosystem—every visitor makes a difference. Choose eco-lodges, avoid single-use plastics, and support community-run tours and conservation groups. If you’re offered the chance to plant a mangrove, say yes. You’ll get muddy, and you’ll love it.
Why Watamu Should Be Your Next Coastal Escape
Watamu isn’t just another beach destination—it’s a full-sensory experience. One minute you’re snorkeling with turtles, the next you’re wandering through ancient ruins or sipping coconut water in a mangrove creek. Whether you’re an adrenaline junkie, a nature lover, a romantic, or just in need of a nap with ocean sounds in the background, Watamu delivers.
With its mix of wild beauty, rich culture, and laid-back charm, this little slice of the Kenyan coast quietly seduces everyone who visits. Come for the beach, stay for the magic. And if you end up extending your trip indefinitely—don’t say we didn’t warn you.
